JEANNE LANVIN

 

 

THE LITTLE OMNIBUS

The eldest of a modest family of eleven children, Jeanne Lanvin was born in Paris on 1 January 1867. From an early age, her independence and strength of character foretold an extraordinary fate for little Jeanne.

At the age of thirteen, Jeanne earned her first wages working for a milliner on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Responsible for delivering hats all over Paris by omnibus, Jeanne preferred to follow behind the vehicle in order to save the cost of a ticket. Nicknamed the "Little Omnibus," she had already gotten herself noticed and quickly worked her way up the ladder.

A hard worker, Jeanne Lanvin began her milliner's apprenticeship a few years later and proved to be quite creative. The hats created by Mademoiselle Jeanne were met with great success, and Jeanne already dreamed of opening her own shop.

The dream would soon become a reality for the then 22-year-old milliner. Through her many sacrifices and persistence, she managed to get "Lanvin (Mademoiselle Jeanne) Modes" hats worn by the most fashionable Parisians.

Portrait of Jeanne Lanvin, circa 1900
© DR

Marguerite at Beaulieu-sur-Mer, 1917
© DR

Children’s designs: Sablaise, 1924 and Bouclette, 1925
© Patrimoine Lanvin

Children’s designs: Sablaise, 1924 and Bouclette, 1925
© Patrimoine Lanvin

Advertisement for Lanvin lipsticks, 1938
© Patrimoine Lanvin

Collection designs in gouache, Patrimoine Lanvin
Crapette design, Sport, Winter 1928

Collection designs in gouache, Patrimoine Lanvin
La Mariée design, 1930

ART AND TRAVEL

Lanvin's success was all thanks to the curiosity, inventiveness, and creative energy of Jeanne Lanvin. with each new collection, the designer sought to reinvent herself and drew inspiration from traveling, the artists of her time, and everything around her.

When she wasn't working on her next collection, Jeanne Lanvin would frequently travel, taking the time to log everything she saw and everything that inspired her. Her travel journals were never far from her when she was working, carefully stored away in her office's bookcase. 

In addition to her memories, Jeanne Lanvin would write about objects she had found, fabric samples, or the traditional clothing of the countries she or her close friends and family would visit: Indian saris, Chinese attire, toreador outfits, or ethnic embroideries and material.

Egypt, circa 1930
© DR / Patrimoine Lanvin

Although she mostly kept to herself, her artistic sensibility and creative spirit opened the doors very early on to the most avant-garde artistic circles of her time. Jeanne Lanvin would diligently socialize with the painters of the Nabis movement, in particular Édouard Vuillard, with whom she shared an obsession with color.
 

She collected works by Renoir, Degas, Fantin-Latour, Fragonard, and many others, and she was highly influenced by the impressionists' use of light and the symbolic works of Odilon Redon. These artistic affinities could often be seen in the brand's collections. For Jeanne Lanvin, they translated into a passion for color, which would push her to open her own dye factory in 1923.

Jeanne Lanvin at a fitting with Yvonne Printemps, circa 1936
© DR / Patrimoine Lanvin

THE LANVIN STYLE
 

Jeanne Lanvin had many inspirations, but elegance, femininity, and modernity were the designer's key words.

In the 1920s, Lanvin stood out for its use of bold colors combined with innovative decorative techniques. Ribbons, embroideries, pearls, and precious details adorned dresses without ever compromising the ateliers' cutting work and exceptional construction.

The use of black and white was frequently incorporated with the brand's iconic colors, such as Lanvin blue. This combination, sometimes interspersed with touches of silver, represented the peak of chic in the mid-1920s. It was the result of geometric research inspired by the Art Deco movement at the height of its influence.

Embroideries and beading created in the Lanvin ateliers between 1925 and 1935
© Patrimoine Lanvin

MADAME LANVIN
 

The success of Jeanne Lanvin's fashion house could only be owed to herself and her long years of persistent work. Reserved and meticulous, her personality did not fit in with those of her contemporaries.

"Madame," as her staff called her, was a demanding boss who, nevertheless, put great trust in the talented individuals surrounding her. Jeanne Lanvin was self-taught and did not draw. She worked a lot with the materials and exchanged her ideas directly with her head seamstresses, who were responsible for creating the models. Jeanne Lanvin was mysterious, preferring to stay away from public life and limiting her interactions with clients during fittings.

Distant from social events, the designer evolved within restricted and intimate circles of artists, writers, and musicians. It was very rare to see her at a ball or at Longchamp races, and if by chance you ran into her there, it was because she came to observe the elegant Parisians in order to better anticipate their future demands.

Jeanne Lanvin was, above all, a visionary and pioneer, a loving mother, and a talented designer who succeeded in building a fashion house from nothing, which is still renowned throughout the world today.

On 6 July 1946, Jeanne Lanvin passed away peacefully at the age of 79. Jeanne—the milliner, the designer, the decorator, the perfume manufacturer, “Madame” as her staff called her—left behind an empire in her wake.

Jeanne Lanvin and a mannequin, 1935
© New York Times/Rea